Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Is this Pork? The Food edition

For some reason, one of the first phrases I learned was "Is this pork? "Zhu rou?" I never had any idea of what they would say back to me after asking the question. Like whoa, not advanced enough to have an actual conversation man, please stick to head shakes of yes or no. So I'd ask and get some response and then usually gauge my hunger and availability of options before deciding if I cared or not. They eat a lot of pork here.
I can't believe how much meat I eat. I mean, all of the sudden, a few weeks ago I was vegetarian and now  I've been chowing down on animals like no tomorrow. Ugh, it's not the happiest thought. Oh look, I just got offered a little pork pastry as I am writing this.
typical dinner selection. noodles, noodles, or rice
It has just been easier to accept what is given to me than offend anyone or go hungry. I admit though, I can only get a few bites in before I've had my fill of meat for the day. Whatever meat it might be..
So far, I've had pork, lots of pork, different kinds of pork, duck, bacon, fish (the Whole fish), crab (the Whole crab), more pork, squid, chicken (but not the Whole chicken), and fried beef steak with mayo on it. Oh, and a scorpion as you learned in my Beijing post. Maybe other things. I just go with it usually. And with a smile.
"Korean BBQ" street skewers

Today at lunch, in the caf, I picked up a cube of meat and popped it in my mouth, but alas, it was a large hunk-o-bone. The local teachers at my table had a good laugh at that and got me a napkin. It was supposedly pieces of bone with meat on them, but this one was basically just bone. The teachers went and got me an extra serving of vegetables after that. Now whenever there is bone-meat, one of the teachers goes and gets me something extra. Lunch at school is hit or miss. It's a cube of rice, oiled lettuce, some meat, and something else vegetable/meat/tofu/oil related. And soup that often tastes like salt water, oil, and seaweed. Oh man, are your mouths watering? It's quite the sight when you go up to get your tray and see an entire fish put on it. Or entire slimy prawns (I said no to biting their heads off). At a teacher appreciation dinner, we were served entire boiled chickens. (I also said no..to the people offering and "no, no, no" to the little chicken head staring  up at me).

I know everyone who knew me when I was younger  is gaping at the screen right now.
WHO'S PICKY NOW??
Honestly though, my diet still consists of mainly fried bread things, noodles, and rice. Breakfasts and snacks (and sometimes other meals) are usually cheap dumplings or fried bread off the street. Though I sometimes happen upon roasted corn on the cob and sweet potatoes. Dinners are often rice or noodles at the Muslim noodle place by our house or a number of other small grub joints. Occasionally, I branch out to street skewers, soup on the street, and other fine restaurant fare. Chinese food is great like once a month, but day after day it gets tiring (especially the unholy amounts of oil) and we are all always scoping out ethnic restaurants or pub fare for a change. I have managed to stay away from classic Western fast food. I've only patronized Pizza Hut a few times.. McD's and KFC I stay away from.
a little more refined
the Indian food that nobody managed to get a photo of before devouring

Monday, October 15, 2012

Famous in Beijing

Onto the rest of the Beijing trip..

real cosy metro rides under the city
On Tuesday, we again set out early. This time our direction was towards the summer palace.  This is where Empress Cixi diverted navy funds to create her own sort of Versailles. And grand and extravagant it was. The area was huge and there were hordes of people. The woodwork was interesting, and the marble boat that isn’t functional. I don’t think my legs were very excited to be used for walking again so soon after the Great Wall.  After lunch, we planned to go back to the hostel and take a break but after a RedBull and snickers, we remembered that we were in BEIJING and there was no time for breaks!
Longevity Hill and Kunming Lake
The marble pleasure barge. Forever docked.
We then went to a hutong which is a traditional narrow street that are individually known for their crafts. They would be Cobbler’s Street, Taylor’s Street, etc. This one, down the block from our destination of a Buddhist temple, had turned commercial from all the tourist traffic. But I Loved it. Oh my, I almost felt at home. Fixie bikes, cute little craft vendors, beer and veggie cafes, and a sign in a window saying “We will refill your re-usable water container for free.” After we pulled ourselves away from there, we went to the “Lama Temple” which is the largest Buddhist Temple in Beijing. The greenery and smell of incense further calmed me. We joined in offering incense for good blessings and wishes.
I said "I'm American!" and he said, "It's too expensive there!"
After, we stopped outside the second largest Confucius Temple and college in China. Following that and dinner, we continued our saga-like day and went to the “Olympic Park”. The area is best seen at night when all the arenas are still lit up. Tourists and vendors were swarming still. One thing that I have noticed is that the Chinese still marvel at their history and love to experience it whether from the age of emperors or 2008.

On Wednesday, we slept in. Finally. Then we hit the day at full force with Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City.  The square (“of Heavenly Peace”), known for many important historical gatherings, holds Mao’s body, the People’s Congress, multiple museums, and lots and lots of people. We didn’t deign to get swallowed up. Across the street we got our photos taken with Chairman Mao’s famous portrait as well as portraits with many local Chinese. It is not uncommon when there is a group of us posing for pictures, that locals will stop and take ours too. Sometimes, they even join in. Today was that occurrence x1000. Take the capital city, national holiday, rural folks, and foreign ladies and you get children pushed up against your legs, shy people edging in close, and bold people bluntly asking for photos with them. CELEBRITIES. By the end of the day, our egos were bursting and we would boldly pose for people who were still trying to slyly take our photo.

Looking down at the Forbidden City // Outside the gates wit Michelle and Ling
The Forbidden City recorded about 180,000 people on Monday and Wednesday they surely must have been about the same. Fortunately, it’s huge. Over 9,000 rooms that the emperors of old frolicked in. I really enjoyed this place. We also liked that by flashing our drivers license, we were able to get in under student discounts as the cashiers were not in the mood to check closely.
That night, we went for famous Peking (roast) Duck. They bring it out and slice it like artists and leave you with every part of it. (Including the cleaned bones). I had a nibble.  Then we went to Wangfujing Night Market where I followed up with a dessert of “Scorpion on a Stick”. I thought about Penn State’s Ag Fair and realized that if I was going to eat grasshopper in the states, I might as well eat scorpion in China. They were still squirming on the stick when the cook pressed them on the grill. When we bit into them, they weren’t quite dead but really, we were doing them a service. How did it taste? Crunchy. Not much else to them. The seahorses and starfishes I left to others with less of a conscious. In the later evening, we went to  GulouDajie bar street which surrounds HouHai Lake. It is a very pretty area, and very expensive!

enjoying the crunchy exoskeleton
On Thursday, we got up and headed to the Temple of Heaven. Pretty, but at this point I was very weary of crowds and meandering walking. We got some famous Beijing noodles (not bad) for lunch and then headed to the train station! All went smoothly again, and I was happy to be home on my hard bed.
close to Heaven
Overall, a great time. I was willing to put up with the crowds to see things I NEVER thought I would have the chance or motivation to see. I did not expect to find myself in China, but while I am here I will be immersing myself and broadening my horizons on a completely new culture. And I’m proud of myself for it.

Saturday, October 13, 2012

The WALL.

Here are a few titles to describe last week:
Mid-Autumn Festival
Golden Week
Moon-Cake Festival
Rachael doesn't have work for a whole week and it was a glorious thing
Rachael's trip to Beijing!
Whatever you may call it, China took the week off and had a little celebration. 


Yum, Moon Cakes. Filled with red bean, lotus jelly,...
According to the World Bank, last year China's population was 1,344,130,000.  So, there were about a billion people planning to travel this week. Why not join in?
I was offered a spot to join one of my Chinese company coordinators and a few friends in Beijing and jumped at the chance. I didn't know when I would make it north in my travels and here was a chance for someone to plan it all out for me. Of course, I'm in! 
Because it makes perfect sense, the schools are mandated to be open on the Saturday before the holiday to make up for missing the whole week. Obviously that takes care of it. So after 6 days of teaching, I boarded the high speed bullet train (!) on Sunday afternoon. At 300kilometers an hour, we spent a comfortable 5 hours hurtling through Chinese countryside headed north. We got in late and with no problem, got ripped off by a taxi driver, had a drink at the hostel, and went to bed. Tomorrow would be an EARLY day. 
so nice to be back in a hostel.
MONDAY: Indeed, we woke up at 6am, had breakfast (yogurt, granola, eggs,toast, cheese, oh my!) and boarded a bus for the great wall. Sorry, I should rather say THE GREAT WALL. There are different spots at the Great Wall for tourists to access. We decided to drive 2 hours away from Beijing to the Mutianyu section to try and escape some of the crowd. Thank goodness. Some pictures showed people crammed onto the Wall, so crowded you were just being pushed along in a surge. Whereas we were able to get some pictures without anyone in them.
A little info:  
Watchtowers: The Great Wall at Mutianyu has 22 watchtowers, about one every kilometer, on overlapping mountain ranges. 
Dimensions: The wall, built with slabs of granite, is 22 km (14 miles) long, seven or eight meters high and four or five meters wide, crenellated on both sides. 
History: The Mutianyu Section of the Great Wall has 1500 years of history (see below) and today’s wall is a replica of the fortifications of 1568.
Construction began on this section of the Great Wall in the Northern Qi Dynasty (550-577). During the reign of Emperor Hongwu (1368-1398), General Xu Da rebuilt the Great Wall on its original foundation. Mutianyu Pass was fortified in 1404 (the 2nd year of Emperor Yongle's reign) with a rare triangular formation of three interlinked watchtowers.
At least we didn't have to take the stairs to just get the the Wall.
Why do all the cool things have stairs? First Machu Picchu, now the Great Wall. There were little stairs, big stairs, no stairs where there should have been stairs, and lots of stones. At one point, I left my companions and took on the final set myself to reach "the end of the wall" or where no restoration had been done and the wall was unsafe for tourists.
After 3.5 hours of the original stair-master workout, we headed for lunch at the base. First, we tobogganed down. Because that is the way soldiers have always gotten off the wall. .
I had a nice moment at lunch when I aided some French boys at my table in ordering for them in Mandarin and then began speaking in Spanish with the Spaniards at my table. The boys were incredulous when I told them I was from America. Apparently, I was only supposed to speak English and expect everyone else to speak English. Well, same to you Frenchies! Maybe you should learn how to at least say "water" and "rice". Touche, Rachael.
queuing up for the ride down
Monday evening, we went to a famous pedestrian street called QianMen (chi-an-men). We had some delicious "hot pot" dinner where a boiling pot of water is served along with veggie, tofu, and raw meat. The water is so hot that after dropping in your food for a minute, it is cooked and ready to be dipped in delicious peanut sauce.
Our tour guide/friend Michelle was on a tight schedule so after dinner, we soon headed home to get some sleep before waking up early again..