Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Angkor history visited

Where is Rachael now: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Siem Reap, Cambodia. 
view from a tuktuk
After a long hot bus ride through the middle of Cambodia, I arrived at Siem Reap, a small town developed to hold the tourists visit nearby Angkor Wat: the gem of Cambodia. At my hostel, I saw three beds all next to each other. Well, we were about to get cosy. I was placed with two other single girl travelers. They off the bat invited me to join them in biking around Angkor tomorrow. I jumped on the chance to get in some exercise instead of riding a tuk tuk (read: rickshaw) from place to place. I picked up my $1 bike and headed downtown. The girls wanted to catch the sunrise over the main temple (Angkor Wat) so I didn't plan on staying out late. I met a new friend from the bus ride and we grabbed some drinks. My downfall was next going to a dance club. Soon it was 3am. I hurried home, climbed in bed (in between the other girls) and slept soundly: for about an hour and a half. At 4:30, they woke me and I hopped up. I had committed myself to this! We took our bikes to Angkor and settled in with a few hundred others to watch the sunrise. After we explored Angkor Wat: the largest religious structure in the world (Hindu) and built in the 12th century. After, we hopped on our bikes and began a circuit to see the other temples that had caught our eyes. Namely Ta Prohm (where some of Tombraider was shot) and Bayon (with over 200 faces carved into its rocky spires). It was a hot day so we often stopped at the lesser temples, glanced around a bit, and then propped up our feet and sipped on fresh coconut. It was a fantastic day. That evening after we washed off our sweat and grime, we went to the Night Market and got massages! I couldn't believe at 11pm I was still awake! But I fell asleep as soon as we got back to the hostel. 

Angkor Wat
 

















blissful
 


















Bayon
Remember those pants I bought in Phnom Penh!?
The next day, as I still had more days on my pass, we headed via tuktuk to another temple much farther out. One of the older temples from the the Angkor times (900ad), Banteay Srei is intricately carved of pink sandstone to depict different Hindu stories. It was breathtaking. 
Later, we stopped at the Cambodian Land Mine Museum and Relief Center. It is the personal collection of a child soldier of the Khmer Rouge who has dedicated his adult life to finding and disarming land mines like the thousands that he set while in the army. Land mines are a plague in Cambodia. More often than not, unsuspecting children or farmers step on them left over from the war and are maimed or killed. That night, we went to a famous ice-cream joint called the Blue Pumpkin. I got Raspberry Yogurt and Ginger with Sesame seed...now that's a flavor that I would like to taste more of!

Banteay Srei

the old method of detecting mines: poking it with a stick


The next day, I awoke early to sadly leave Cambodia and cross over to Thailand.

*A great moment: at a restaurant we asked about Happy Hour. "Oh yes," the host said "we are all ver happy you. Come in, you can be happy!" Not only were we happy, we managed to introduce them to the drink special that is That 'Happy Hour'

Monday, January 28, 2013

Phnom Penh, Cambodia is stop 1

Where is Rachael now (yes, it's back; I'm on the move!): Bangkok, Thailand

Cambodia. Oh, I love Cambodia. I flew into the capital, Phnom Penh (ignore the 'h's) and walked out into the HEAT. It was wonderful! Nighttime heat with yellowed lights and laughter and good smells greeted me and I breathed out. On my flight from southern China to PP, I noticed someone with a Penn State shirt. When I ran into him at the visa station, I had to ask..and turns out he was a native! He had grown up in a nearby town as well as Boalsburg AND he had helped out at Camp Golden Pond one summer..my girl scout camp! Oh the places Penn Staters go... Anyway, I hopped in a tuk tuk and headed for my hostel. Since I am traveling alone, I have been picking hostels that cater a bit more for a party scene or include a bar..just so I know I can easily meet people. The Mad Monkey was perfect.
The next morning, I had some delicious breakfast at the hostel open air restaurant. Great people watching at all hours. I decided to tackle the tough sites first. I arranged to ride passenger to a moto driver. He took me to the Killing Fields first. The Khmer Rouge civil war is recent history for Cambodia. The Killing Fields is one of the sites where prisoners of the regime were executed. Over 20,000. Next we went to Tuol Sleng Prison (now a museum). It was here, just in town, that many people were held and tortured typically later ending up at the Killing Fields. I cried. It's a terrible story of pitting neighbors against each other and the Museum did not hold back. Truly saddening, but when I asked my moto driver: he said he was just happy that foreigners were coming and learning about this and that his country was mending.
commemorative stupa
no rhyme or reason: only Poi Pots' paranoia
I relaxed and contemplated the rest of the day at some cafes. I hadn't had a chai in months! What is so strange about Cambodia is that they work in US dollars. The taxis, the restaurants, the shops. Whatever change there might be, they make up the difference in Cambodian riel. So you get a mix of both. That evening I drank at the bar with some assorted travelers. It's easy meeting people there.
The second day I went shopping at the central market. My best purchase: pants. Everyone has These Pants. They feel like I'm not wearing pants which is best in this weather. Then I saw the Royal Palace. That evening, I went out on my own. At a restaurant I ordered...frog! Why not! It was actually quite good! On my walk back, I grabbed some icecream. That night I went out and explored the club scene a bit. One of the girls was from Seattle and she reminded me so much of friends, I really enjoyed her company.
My last day I went to one more site, the Russian Market. After that, I boarded a bus to Siem Reap. Stop 2.


a spirit home: they are all over and about the size of large bird houses

One line to sum it up: I'm used to seeing balancing acts on the backs of motos in China, but it was a first to see an entire refrigerator balanced on the back! This town is great!

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Chinese New Year plans

Today is Thursday. Or day 7 on my 8-day work streak. It hasn't been so bad. Most of the local English teachers at my school have asked for my classes to review test material with the students. So I sit in the warm office smiling, resting my voice, and saving my stickers. Not a bad week at all.
Once Friday is up, the fun begins. I'm not due back at school until February 18!
First, I get on a 31-hour train. Sounds delightful, right? It must be heading somewhere good, right? Right?! It's heading to the northern most major city of China, Harbin, which is near the Mongolian and Russian borders. It's heading to a city that is currently running a temperature of around -15F. You say to me (and many of you have), "Rachael, WHY are you going there??" Well, National Geographic rates Harbin's Ice Festival as the #1 Winter spot and Guinness World Records has given Harbin the title of largest Ice Sculpture. But really, I don't know what I'm thinking going there. Other than knowing I need all the warm socks I can get. Should be fun! At least it's known that their indoor heating system is one to be admired. I am going with a few teacher friends and we will spend two days exploring the ice city, sliding on the ice slide, and defrosting in the evening.
Then back to SH, re-pack my suitcase with warm weather clothes, attend a birthday party, and hop on a plane for...

Phnom Penh, Cambodia! Then the wandering commences. Here's the plan:

Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Angkor Wat (Siem Reap), Cambodia...getting my ancient ruins fix!
Bangkok, Thailand: thai food, thai food, THAI FOOD
Chiang Mai, Thailand: elephants, bicycles, coffee oh my!
Luang Prabang, Laos: taking it easy by the Mekong River
Vang Vieng, Laos: tubing down the Mekong, climbing some Limestone crag
Vientiane, Laos: back into the city
Hanoi, Vietnam: including Halong Bay where US marines once waded ashore.

I can't wait. In the beginning, I will be 'alone' until Laos and Vietnam where I will find some of my fellow SH teachers also searching for sun and warmth. With my backpack back on my back (can't wait!), booking trains and buses, and meeting the world in the streets and at the hostel, I will be opening my eyes, heart, and mind to SE Asia.. and stomach to the food. Is it wrong to say that I am most excited for the food? Fresh fruit and spicy curries? SIGN ME UP.
Stay tuned, there will be lots for me to share!